Shopping List 1.Cage – My number one choice is a pet pen. You can use amattresspad under a blanket to keep your floors safe and then set it up just like a cage. It gives them more space and is also easier to pick the bunny up not to mention easier to litter train. Other than a pen type set up I highly recommend one with a pull out tray with a wire bottom vs. a plastic bottom. I DO NOT recommend a plastic bottom cage. Please see myBunny Supply pagefor links to different cages I recommend.
1.Cage – My number one choice is a pet pen. You can use amattresspad under a blanket to keep your floors safe and then set it up just like a cage. It gives them more space and is also easier to pick the bunny up not to mention easier to litter train. Other than a pen type set up I highly recommend one with a pull out tray with a wire bottom vs. a plastic bottom. I DO NOT recommend a plastic bottom cage. Please see myBunny Supply pagefor links to different cages I recommend.
2.Litter box – I recommend the one for kittens or a dish pan. I normally have these in stock. 3.Litter for litter box – Pine or paper pellets. Tractor Supply has a horse bedding pine pellet for $5.98 for a 40 lb bag. 4.Litter for pull out tray (if needed) – You can use the horse bedding pellets or pine or aspen shavings. NO cedar shavings! 5.Water bowl - Your bunny currently drinks from a bowl and doesn't know how to drink from a bottle yet. Bottles sometimes leak or get stopped up causing your bunny to dehydrate so I don't recommend them. 6.Food bowl – A ceramic crock works great because they can’t tip it over or one of the ones that attach to cage. 7.Food – I highly recommend not switching their food until they are 4 months old. I sell great food here for your convenience for $10 for a 2 gallon bag. See Food section for more info. 8.Hay – Timothy or Orchard. I recommend buying from a farmer. It’s a lot less expensive. I also sell for $10 for a 13 gallon bag full. 9.Wooden toys – this helps with the growth of their teeth and helps with boredom. 10.Cage mat or bed – If they have a wire bottom cage they need something to get off the wire.
3.Litter for litter box – Pine or paper pellets. Tractor Supply has a horse bedding pine pellet for $5.98 for a 40 lb bag.
4.Litter for pull out tray (if needed) – You can use the horse bedding pellets or pine or aspen shavings. NO cedar shavings!
5.Water bowl - Your bunny currently drinks from a bowl and doesn't know how to drink from a bottle yet. Bottles sometimes leak or get stopped up causing your bunny to dehydrate so I don't recommend them.
6.Food bowl – A ceramic crock works great because they can’t tip it over or one of the ones that attach to cage.
7.Food – I highly recommend not switching their food until they are 4 months old. I sell great food here for your convenience for $10 for a 2 gallon bag. See Food section for more info.
8.Hay – Timothy or Orchard. I recommend buying from a farmer. It’s a lot less expensive. I also sell for $10 for a 13 gallon bag full.
9.Wooden toys – this helps with the growth of their teeth and helps with boredom.
10.Cage mat or bed – If they have a wire bottom cage they need something to get off the wire.
11. Hay sack - to hold they hay in. We sell them here. This goes above your litter box to help them litter train faster.
We sell a lot of these supplies at Misty Blue’s…..http://www.mistybluesbunnies.com/store/c13/Bunny_Supplies_%26_More.html
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Rabbits are unique pets. They have specific needs in order to live a long, happy and healthy life. Here is a basic overview on how to care for a pet rabbit:
Step 1: Set Up Safe Indoor Housing
There are several options to house rabbits inside. They can live free-reign in a bunny proofed room/rooms, or they can be contained within a puppy pen, bunny condo, or large rabbit cage. If contained, their space should always be large enough so they can hop around, and they should be let out of their pen for at least a few hours everyday for exercise.
Make sure the primary location of your rabbit is not isolated from you and your family. A family room or living room is a good place.
Step 2: Bunny Proof Your House
Your bunny needs space to run around and explore. In order to create a safe space for your bunny and to protect your belongings, you will need to thoroughly bunny proof the area. This includes covering all wires with plastic sleeves or flex tubing, or lifting them 3-4 feet out of reach of your rabbit. If you don’t want your baseboards gnawed, you can cover them with plastic guards, 2x4s or furring strips. You’ll also have to block off certain areas since rabbits like to chew the undersides of beds, items on bookshelves, house plants, and more. Basically, your rabbit will try to chew everything in reach.
Step 3: Provide Fresh Hay
Fresh hay should be provided to rabbits at least 3-4 days per week but I recommend it be supplied daily. Rabbits should be fed timothy hay, grass hay, or oat hay. Baby rabbits can have alfalfa hay. Using a large hay feeder is helpful because it keeps large amounts of hay dry, clean, and accessible. We sell adorable hay sacks that does the job well.
Step 4: Provide Fresh Greens, Fiber-rich Pellets, and Fresh Water
Supplement your rabbit’s hay with fresh vegetables, fiber-rich pellets, and fresh water daily. You can start feeding veggies and fruits after 4 months of age.
Step 5: Set Up a Litter Box
Rabbits have a natural inclination to poop and pee in one area. Take advantage of this by setting up a kitten sized litter box or dish pan under their hay feeder. Put a thin layer of rabbit-safe, recycled newspaper pellet litter or pine litter at the bottom of the litter box. Do not use clay/clumping cat litter or cedar wood shavings, as they are not safe for rabbits.
Step 6: Provide Enrichment
Rabbits can get bored easily. Not only do they need space to exercise, they also need mental stimulation. Cardboard castles are great because rabbits spend hours chewing new windows and doorways. Cardboard castles also provide a quiet refuge for the rabbit when necessary.
Step 7: Groom Your Rabbit
Rabbits are naturally clean animals and wash themselves frequently. But you still need to groom your rabbit on a regular basis. Rabbits go through shedding cycles a couple times a year. It’s important to brush your rabbit to remove all the excess fur.
Regular nail clipping is also important because long nails can get snagged on things or they can curl into your rabbit’s paw.
Step 8: Bring Your Rabbit to a Rabbit-Savvy Vet
Rabbits are prey animals, and so their natural instinct is to hide any symptoms of illness. You must keep a watchful eye to ensure your rabbit is eating, drinking, pooping, and peeing regularly. If you notice any change in behavior, it is important to call a rabbit-savvy vet immediately.
Finally, consider spaying or neutering your rabbit. Spaying/neutering can reduce aggressive behavior, improve litter box habits, and improve a rabbit’s overall health.
What do I feed my bunny?
- Rabbit Food:
- Dwarf sized bunnies - We feed our baby bunnies ½ cup of food per day and our adult bunnies we feed ¾ cup per day
- Flemish Giants– 1 cup more than above. They also need an extra source of protein like black oil sunflower seeds or calf manna sold at Tractor Supply. This can be mixed in with the food and no more than a tsp per day.
- Hay: Timothy or Orchard Hay. Hay should be available at least 3 days per week. This helps with digestion and with their teeth. I recommend just keeping the hay rack filled.
- After they are 4 months old you can feed them vegetables & fruits: See the list below. They can be fed 1 cup per 2 lbs of body weight per day. Give them fruitssparingly. Rabbits do not have to have veggies to live a long healthy life. Think of these as treats. All the vitamins and protein is in the pellets they eat. When introducing fruits and veggies introduce them slowly and a very little bit at first.
- Please do not feed your bunny rabbit food with colorful pieces or nuts mixed in. These brands do not give your bunny the right balance of protein and fiber. Instead it's giving them sugar and fillers.
- Dry Old Fashion Oats is a great treat to mix in their food as often as you would like. Oats help with digestion and great to give them if they have soft stool or aren’t eating. Add 1 tsp to the top of their food.
- Black Oil Sunflower Seeds is also great to mix in with food or give as a treat after 4 months (5-10 seeds). It’s great for their fur and also helps produce milk in nursing momma bunnies.
DO NOT FEED YOUR BUNNY ANYTHING OTHER THAN PELLETS AND HAY FOR THE FIRST 4 MONTHSChanging Food
- Your bunny is used to the filet minion of all bunny foods. I highly recommend not changing your bunny’s food. We show our bunnies, so we have to have top quality food to ensure a nice shiny coat among many other things. We have used Home FreshShow Hutch Deluxe for 5years now. It’s used by most show breeders as it is very high in protein (17%), fiber and even has yucca in it to help with the urine odor. It has been wonderful. We sell and can also ship to you for your convenience. Please be aware that if you try to change to another food your bunny may refuse to eat which can cause serious issues. If you switch to a lower protein you’re your bunny may molt. Please do not let the bunny go for more than 24 hours without eating.
More About Feeding Your Bunny
- I sell 2 gallon zip lock bags of food for $10 and can also ship them (shipping is $9.50). This will last one 4 lb bunny 4 months. I sell hay for $10 in a 13 gallon trash bag. It’s fresh hay from a local farmer and the bunnies LOVE it!!
- Store the feed and hay in an air tight container.
- Fact: Obesity is common in pet rabbits, and excessive amounts of food should be avoided.
- Your bunny will occasionally pass odd shaped stools called cecotropes (below) that are sometimes eaten (a process called coprophagia). This supplies the rabbit with most of its vitamin B requirement, it also contains healthy bacteria that the rabbit needs to digest food helping prevent diarrhea. I know this sounds gross but it’s a rabbit’s nature. You will probably never see your bunny do this.
- If droppings are runny and or the rabbit is not eating find out why. Feed the rabbit only timothy hay & dry old fashion oats for a day. If it still doesn’t look right call your vet. If it’s very runny call the vet right away.
- Rabbits are not able to vomit so when they have an upset stomach they can die. It’s very important to try to stick with the same food and try to feed the same time each day.
- Jersey Woolies sometimes need some extra help with digesting hair balls or they can get what is called wool block. You can help by giving them treats weekly called papaya enzyme tablets, fresh papaya, or fresh pineapple.
- Water: Make sure the rabbit has clean cool water at all times. You can mix ¼ cap full of Apple Cider Vinegar “with mother” in each water bottle or bowl. It helps with so many things such as keeping their immune system up, preventing urinary tract infections and bladder sludge. It also promotes a less potent urine therefore reducing the smell. It also keeps the rabbits body ph balanced, clearing up skin conditions and infections. Also helps with weepy eyes and other eye issues. It also helps keep your rabbits fur softer and shinier. It also helps with any types of GI tract issues and with the whole digestive process. It also makes rabbits unattractive to worms, fleas and mites. You will see a difference in your bunny within 4 weeks.
IF YOUR BUNNY HAS DIARRHEA, LOOKS VERY BLOATED AND/OR NOT EATING OR DOING #2 TAKE HIM TO THE VET ASAP
- Rabbits love toys to play around with. Here are recommended toys: toilet paper roll stuffed with hay, cat toy balls, sticks from a fruit tree pine cones, wood toys. The toys that are a must is the wood toys. These help keep your bunnies teeth filed down and also helps keep them from chewing on things they shouldn’t be chewing on.
- Your bunny needs a cage that is at least 24” by 24” and a 24” by 30” for 2 bunnies but of course the bigger the better! I highly recommend 2 types of cages. My first choice would be a pet play pen which we sell gorgeous ones. My 2nd choice would be one with a pull out tray with a wire bottom vs. a plastic bottom. Tractor Supply has them for around $40and Walmart online has them also for the same price. My very least choice would be a plastic bottom cage. They are hard to clean and can be very messy. I have links to cages I recommend on my website under Bunny Supplies.
- Bunnies need a mat or bed to lay on if living in a wire type cage.
Can I keep my outdoors?
Yes and No, if you have a super shady spot in your yard with a hutch that will provide them with a dry safe place then yes. They cannot live in a hutch where the sun hits them.
Can I litter train my bunny?
Yes, bunnies can easily be litter trained. Putting their hay rack above the litter box helps with the training. Bunnies typically do #2 while eating their hay. Here are some great videos for litter training….
- Be sure to clip its nails regularly. Here is a great videoon YouTube of how to clip bunny nails.youtu.be/VYk4_xYYrPk
- If it’s a long haired bunny they need to be brushed. It’s best to brush them at least once a week. If it’s a super fluffy bunny you will probably need to trim its bum hair regularly. Another tip is if you have a fluffy bunny don’t use wood shavings for the litter box because it gets caught in their hair and causes mats. You can use horse pellets instead.
- Make sure you handle your rabbit correctly. Always support its hind feet. When picking him or her up scoop underneath him to support his bottom.
- Our bunnies are full grown at around 4 months except for our Flemish Giants. They can grow until they are a year and 5 months old.
FUN FACT! WE CAN BUNNY SIT FOR YOU FOR $10 PER DAY!!
Does my bunny need regular vet visits?
It’s totally up to you. When a bunny is sick it should be very obvious. The first sign is they stop eating.
Do rabbits need regular vaccinations?
No, at this time there are no bunny vaccines available.
What are some reasons I would need to take my bunny to the vet?
- Stops eating
- White mucus coming from the nose
- Hunched up in corner of cage or being lethargic
- He or she looks bloated and not eating or pooping
My bunny’s urine is red/orange, what should I do?
This is typically normal for bunnies. It’s caused from the hay. The more they eat sometimes the more orange their urine is. If you are concerned you can take the hay away for a few days and see if the red goes away.
Does your bunny need spayed or neutered?
I recommend spay and neutering. Also, if you are getting more than one bunny you may have to.
Facts you should know about spay/neutering:
- Rabbits are induced ovulators, which occurs onlyafter sexual activity has occurred. Rabbits do not “go into heat” in the standard dog or cat sense.
- Rabbits can become pregnant immediately after giving birth. With a gestation period of about 30 days, one female can produce as many as 12 litters per year.
- Reduces aggression against other animals, decreasing fights, thus saving expensive veterinary bills and aggravation.
- Male bunnies can possibly spray and may hump things like stuffed animals or even your arm. Neutering will fix those problems.
- They can be spayed or neutered when they are full grown.
Here are the local bunny vets that I recommend…. Mallard Creek Animal Hospital – Dr. Fluek
Animal Ark Veterinary Hospital
3515 Lawrence St. Clemmons, NC. 27012
Spay and neuter $150 - $200
2110 Ben Craig Dr. Charlotte, NC 28262
Spay is around $200 and Neuter $160
Crossroads Animal Hospital (Low Cost Spay/Neuter Clinic
3604 Dallas High Shoals Hwy Dallas, NC 28034
Spay is $105 Neuter $85 $20 Deposit up front
Carolina Vetrinary Specialists – Dr. Powers
She is the very best when it comes to illnesses with bunnies but pricey on spay and neuters. Sweetest Vet I know. Highly recommend!
12117 Statesville Rd.
Huntersville, NC 28078
Mallard Creek Animal Hospital – Dr. Fluek
BLUE SEAL SHOW HUTCH DELUXE®
Extruded Rabbit Feed
PRODUCT DESCRIPTIONShow Hutch Deluxe® extruded rabbit feed is a highly fortified and highly digestible feed for all rabbit categories. The extruded feed is ideal for show rabbitries looking for the very best. Note: Extruded feed is bulkier and lighter than pellets and needs to be fed by weight, not volume. Available in 50-lb bags.
FEATURES AND BENEFITS
Extruded Nuggets -The extrusion process improves feed digestibility and nutrient utilization. This high quality extruded form slows the rate of feed intake and reduces fines in the feed resulting in reduced digestive and respiratory disorders.
Papaya- Aids in reducing gastrointestinal disorders related to hairballs.
Fixed Components- A consistent formula using only the highest quality ingredients to prevent sudden changes in the diet and to improve digestive health and function.
Chelated Trace Minerals- The greater absorption and utilization of zinc, copper, and manganese helps to promote optimum bone, muscle, and tissue confirmation in show rabbits. The more biologically available organic trace minerals sustain the immune system, maintaining overall health in stressed show rabbits.
MosPlus™- Supports the presence of beneficial bacteria and helps stabilize the rabbit’s sensitive digestive tract, ultimately promoting good animal health. Yeast Culture - Supports a healthy, functional microbial fermentation in the rabbit cecum and colon, promoting fiber digestion.
Crude Protein, Min.............................................................................. 17.0%
Crude Fat, Min......................................................................................... 3.0%
Crude Fiber, Min.................................................................................. 15.0%
Crude Fiber, Max ................................................................................. 19.0%
Calcium (Ca), Min. .................................................................................. 0.7%
Calcium (Ca), Max................................................................................... 1.2%
Phosphorus (P), Min ........................................................................... 0.50%
Salt (NaCl), Min..................................................................................... 0.25%
Salt (NaCl), Max .................................................................................... 0.75%
Vitamin A, Min............................................................................. 5,000 IU/lb
Vegetables & Treats Your Bunny Can and Cannot Have
Rabbits have a sweet tooth. They can be fed several types of treats, but should be limited to small portions two or three times a week. Never feed treats that have been treated with chemical fertilizer or pesticides. Rabbits under 6 months should not be fed any of these items. After 6 months or when trying a new treat watch the rabbit’s droppings to ensure they stay solid. Below is a list of items you can and cannot feed your rabbit.
- Apples (no seeds)
- Pears (no seeds)
- Carrot Tops & Leaves
- Mustard Greens
- Dandelion Greens
- Collard Greens
- Lettuce – Romaine or dark leaf (no iceburg)
- Apple Seeds
- Apricot Pits
- Asparagus Fern
- Bleeding Heart
- Cherry Pits
- Creeping Charlie
- Daffodil Bulbs
- Hyacinth Bulbs
- Iceberg Lettuce
- Lily of the Valley
- Peach Pits
- Pear Seeds
- Plum Pits
- Rhubarb Leaves
- Skunk Cabbage
- Tomato Leaves